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Lars, thanks a lot for trying in german, but it is fine with me if you want to post in english.
I suppose that eases the process of troubleshooting.
You even had to WHAT ? Dismantle the tank ? Wow, you really have done some work.
But that way one gets to know every tiny screw on the car ;-) Keep up the spirit !
Regards
Thilo
Verstehen kann man das Leben nur rückwärts, leben muss man es vorwärts.
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(19.02.2009, 21:40)denis76 schrieb: Hallo
Und war es schon besser ? Ich weiß nicht. Vielleicht ein bischen besser voraus die Batterie schluß bekamm.
Zitat:Kleiner Tip für morgen Einfach den Motor mit laufen lassen sonst ist sie gleich wieder runter.
Ja ich weiß
Zitat:Ich habe bei mir nach dem Umbau von man. auf el. Verdeck wo ich ja auch alle Hydraulikleitungen ab hatte ca. 3-4 mal Öl nachgefüllt . Also immer wieder nach dem Ölstand schauen & gegebenfalls nachfüllen.
Denis76
Ich habe schon 6-7 mal nachgefüllt. Total 1 Liter Öl nachdem Ölbehälter gewechseln.
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Tux schrieb:You even had to WHAT ? Dismantle the tank ?
Take a pill and calm down, Thilo,
I guess he means the oiltank on the hydraulic pump...
@Lars: Please feel free to post in English. Somebody should be able to translate...
Grüße von der Ems,
Andreas
Saison 04-09: Typ89 Cabriolet ABK EZ 20.06.1994
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Hej Lasse,
här finns även en tolk om det blir riktig problem. Tyvärr hade jag inga problemer med hydrauliken än so länge, så tror jag kan jag inte hjälpa dig på det här.
Välkommen i alla fall!
Gruss aus Nordwest!
Peter
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(19.02.2009, 21:52)Tux schrieb: Lars, thanks a lot for trying in german, but it is fine with me if you want to post in english.
I suppose that eases the process of troubleshooting.
You even had to WHAT ? Dismantle the tank ? Wow, you really have done some work.
But that way one gets to know every tiny screw on the car ;-) Keep up the spirit !
Regards
Thilo Thank you. Okey, then I mix german and english but not in the same comment. It is so much easier for me to explain in english.
Yes I had to remove the tank. I tried in many ways to remove the Hydraulic pump but there were absolutely no room to get the front nut. The instructions from WinElsa describe four screws, I only reached two of them so after several hours I dismantled the hoses and moved the tank a little bit out in the boot and to the left. After that it was easy to get the hidden nut.
What I found out was that the reservoir had two cracks and now when I mounted a new cup and put the pump in place I can feel, when I move the pump sideways, that the reservoir is touching the wheel arch or rather scraping. I put some cloth between the reservoir and the chassi to avoid any feature cracks. Afterwards I think I should install the pump closer to the bumper.
Now, if you've watched the video I made. Is it normal that the hood is just falling down in the end (when I raise the roof from the hood lid)? That's what happening, no sound from the hydraulic at all just falling down by it's own force.
As the battey is empty (the car is in the garage and it's not so healthy having the engine on) I will try later tonight and let you know the result. However before the battery went empty I had the chance to try a couple of times and believe it or not, the hood lid stayed up and didn't fell down like on the video. Even if I had the gas-filled struts removed.
Fingers crossed that it will work 100% tonight
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Lars,
sounds good so far.
When the roof is operated the the first few times after refill, the remaining air gets pushed out of the hydraulic system. That is the reason why the oil level falls again. I would recommend to open and close the roof five to ten times while keeping an eye on the oil level and adding fluid if necessary.
One comment regards your empty battery. Do not attempt to start the car with an empty battery! Since you have got the V6 2.6 (ABC), you would certainly risk to put the engine control unit (ECU) into backup mode. Once entered, the ECU loses information on the correct throttle position and the idle stabiliser characteristics. Unfortunately this is no self-learning system, thus a reset via OBD (at a repair shop or via certain hard and software) is mandatory to get the ECU back into calibrated mode.
Thus, my recommendation would be: First recharge the battery. Then switch on ignition, but do not start. Check the battery gauge. It should read 12V+x to ensure a save start of the ECU.
Good luck.
I would be happy to read your response (telling that you had success).
Keep posting in "any" language... I guess - to a certain extend - this community is international enough to handle that
sonnige Grüße
alles unter 2,6 Liter ist Steuerhinterziehung!
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19.02.2009, 22:19
(Dieser Beitrag wurde zuletzt bearbeitet: 19.02.2009, 22:27 von Stout001.)
(19.02.2009, 22:00)lemmy schrieb: Tux schrieb:You even had to WHAT ? Dismantle the tank ?
Take a pill and calm down, Thilo,
I guess he means the oiltank on the hydraulic pump...
@Lars: Please feel free to post in English. Somebody should be able to translate...
Thanks Yes I ment the Hydraulic pump. I saw the word in another string and thought it could fit in the text But i DID remove the tank.
(19.02.2009, 22:18)Grappa schrieb: One comment regards your empty battery. Do not attempt to start the car with an empty battery! Since you have got the V6 2.6 (ABC), you would certainly risk to put the engine control unit (ECU) into backup mode. Once entered, the ECU loses information on the correct throttle position and the idle stabiliser characteristics. Unfortunately this is no self-learning system, thus a reset via OBD (at a repair shop or via certain hard and software) is mandatory to get the ECU back into calibrated mode.
Thus, my recommendation would be: First recharge the battery. Then switch on ignition, but do not start. Check the battery gauge. It should read 12V+x to ensure a save start of the ECU.
Oooops I did and when I did it the dash panel died and the engine just clicked. But when I removed the key and inserted it again and put ignition on the lamps lit again but I didn't try to start the car. I hope certainly hope it will be OK
Zitat:Good luck.
I would be happy to read your response (telling that you had success).
Me too
Zitat:Keep posting in "any" language... I guess - to a certain extend - this community is international enough to handle that
But I am trying to be polite
In school I learned german for three years but that was thirty years ago and you know if your not keeping it up you forget. Am I doing well with the german? I speak better than I write.
I know there are many funny grammar faults that I do continously but it's on me, for free.
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Lars,
your german is not brilliant, but - with respect - quite good. I had no trouble understanding your posts.
Do not worry too much about the ECU. There is just a risk for the ECU to lose information. If it happened, do not worry either. Resetting the ECU is done quickly and easy - but you need equippment or a work shop.
Interesting to read, that the pump hits the rear inner fender. That is not intended. The design of the pump position and the fender for sure does not include a touch condition but a certain clearance. I strongly recommend to check whether there is something wrong with your car (previous accident? Pump not mounted in correct position?).
Please note: The position of the pump is important, because (next to being a pump) it works as a tuned mass damper (TMD), which is tuned to a certain resonance frequency. The entire car gets excited (for example from the road) and responds with a vibration in certain frequencies and mode shapes. To avoid unwanted vibrations in the resonance frequencies (lowers customer satisfaction ) or at least to reduce those, the TMD works phase shifted to the cars vibration, eliminating the vibration amplitude.
In order to have the TMD work correctly within the entire vibration system given by the car, it has to sit at the position where the amplitude of the vibration is max or at least quite high. If you put it on a different position, you might hit the node of the vibration and thus make the TMD ineffective. In the worst case you can even get amplification of the vibration.
So please check your car for anything that looks unusual.
sonnige Grüße
alles unter 2,6 Liter ist Steuerhinterziehung!
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19.02.2009, 23:12
(Dieser Beitrag wurde zuletzt bearbeitet: 19.02.2009, 23:18 von Stout001.)
Interesting reading indeed. The system is more complicated than I thougt. The car is "unfallfrei" But I think there are margins concering the installtion of the pump. Before it was even more to the wheel arch than now. It depends on how far you are screwing the nuts on each side i guess.
audionet.de is a great site and community. We have an Audi dedicated website in Sweden but there are rarely any replies concerning cabrio. Therefore I am very pleased that I can write in English here. I first thought it anything but german was banned, therefore I did the video as one video says more than 1000 words in any language
Back to the hood...
Is it normal that if I close the hood, that the very last stage, when the back is going to the roof-lid, that it moves by it's own pressure. I mean on my car the hydraulic is not active on mine when that happens?
I also found out before the battery went empty that the gas-filled struts are superfluous as the roof-lid still works. I guess they are there to minimize the burden?
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(19.02.2009, 23:12)Stout001 schrieb: Is it normal that if I close the hood, that the very last stage, when the back is going to the roof-lid, that it moves by it's own pressure. I mean on my car the hydraulic is not active on mine when that happens?
Hi Lars,
viewing your great video I was wondering exactly in that situation if you act according the right order. Normally when the back is going down to the roof-lid everything shout be done by the hydraulic system. Afterwards and only than you need to pull down the front manually to the windscreen. It seems that you're fighting against the hydraulic system...
semu
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